Swinney 'Farvie' Grenache 2018

Bunch selection from unirrigated bush vines in a region that on paper looks a bit too cool for Grenache but this is sumptuously rich. Made in Rob Mann's oft-used 1,600-litre Taransaud TOPTEC oak fermentation vat in a corner of Stella Bella winery. Co-fermented with a small portion of Mourvèdre. Indigenous yeast and no acid addition. Minimal pumpover. Aged in 10% new demi-muids for 10 months.

More intense and luscious than the regular Swinney Grenache. The fruit, the whole fruit and almost nothing but the fruit. A really gorgeous wine that's not like any other Grenache or Garnacha I have come across – presumably a terroir expression.

This is a remarkable wine that captures the essence of this variety in a way not seen before in Australia. It's a medium-bodied wine, yet the palate delivers deep and complex flavours through to an exceptional finish. Has a European gravelly, grainy mouthfeel that carries plenty of intensity albeit delivered with such poise and almost shy coyness.

“Whither the fates call”, says the bottle. Since 1922 the Swinney family have had this farm. Grapes are their currency now. Selection of fruit, distinct soil type, hand sorted (bunch and berry) to nth degree, farming to complement this, and all off the bush vine section of the vineyard. Whole bunch ferment is a player, some mourvedre too. I like the Swinney Grenache 2018 more, per se, but there’s grand merit in both as totems of Aus grenache. Bottle shot to follow.

Flesh and sinew, rolling richness but inherent freshness. Mouth-coating, palate staining dark berry fruits, sarsaparilla, spice, specks of herb and pepper. Concentration, but levity, juiciness here too – that’s the come hither element. A sheath of lacy, firm, silty, near rugged (slightly distracting) but pleasing tannins. Perfume a fog of pretty floral, sweet fruit, earthy spice. Feels very serious, this wine, primped and preened, reserved in a way. Thoroughbred through and through.